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July 17, 2004 |
Australia Part Two: Country Mouse or City Mouse?In June, I spent 11 days traveling with my husband in Australia. 6 days in Cairns, 5 in Brisbane. In preparation, I listened to Bill Bryson’s In a Sun Burned Country on tape. He was pretty dead on for the most part, includes history, is sarcastic and all around funny. Day 1:
Day 2 & 3: The weather was cloudy, windy and way-to-often-to-be-occasional- rainy. This caused for visibility to be poor at best. Despite that, we made 5 dives over the course of those 2 days. It had been a number of years since I had gone diving and while gung-ho in spirit, I didn’t realize there would be any apprehension on my part until I started to let the air out of my BC, and the distance between my head and the surface of the water began to grow. While I had done this before, there was a small part of my brain that kept saying ‘This isn’t right’. To which I kept breathing, pep talked myself down, confident that if there were any problems, there were people to help me. I knew that once I was down there and moving around, things would be okay. And they were. The water was warm and there were lots to see. Large cucumber eels, turtles, stingrays, giant clams, lots of sea anemones and some live coral. I think because this was the ‘GREAT BARRIER REEF’, I was expecting “spectacular “. What I did not expect and found surprising, were the large amounts of dead coral. Overall, I found the GBR to be on par with Maui. Okay, maybe Maui No Ka Oi wink! If any of you have been scuba diving, you know that there is some restriction with a wet suit, then you put on a BC [buoyancy control vest] that is strapped on tightly to hold the air tank worn on your back [like a back pack] and then that BC is filled with air. Squeezing my chest, making it hard to take a full breath. Reminiscent of wearing a full kimono, if any of you have ever. All in all I was probably carrying about 60lbs worth of equipment in and out of the water. All that, combined with the strong water currents, dark clouds, rain, choppy water and pour visibility, that by the last dive, I thought I was going to have to quit before it started. The tightness in my chest reminded me of an anxiety episode. It certainly felt like it. We swam out from the boat to get closer to the reef, as suggested by the dive boat operators. The water was very choppy. I wanted to start descending right away as it is calmer below, but BRKVW wanted me to calm down a bit first. So we treaded water a bit. I knew that taking a deep breaths would help me calm down, but the equipment was so tight against my chest, it was hard to get into the cycle of calming down, and easy to stay in the cycle of panic. While I wasn’t able to completely calm down, the look of terror must have left my eyes enough to convince BRKVW that I was ready. We descended and I had been dealing with a bit of panic each proceeding dive at this juncture in the procedure. I had overcome it in the past by talking to myself, telling me it was going to be ok. Usually by the time I get to the bottom, with the air released from the BC-thus less tightness around my chest, I have chilled out. Not this time. The tight feeling in my chest did not go away, so I could not get relaxed with a deep breath. Instead I sucked air. Lots of air. Rather quickly. Even though all that was going on, I still enjoyed the dive. It’s pretty down there and lots of stuff to look at. Because of the pour visibility, we could not see the boats mooring, and I was getting low on air, so we had to ascend to the surface. We were a bit further from the boat than I hoped. The surface water was still choppy and there was a strong current. I wanted nothing more to be on that boat and out of the equipment. I needed to take a deep breath. I didn’t know if I could make the swim back to the boat. BRKVW is the most marvelous man I know. He is the best friend, lover, mate a girl should ever want. And now… he is the best dive partner anyone could ever be so fortunate to have. Always level thinking, safety conscious, strong, mellowing to a panicking wife, full of energy and did I mention strong? As he had done earlier that day, he hauled my ass in. I inflated my BC and basically floated, and whilst holding hands, he pulled me along, telling me everything was going to be all right. And it was. He takes the best care of me.
I would like to come back to the GBR, see a different part of the reef, when it is calmer, and sunny. It is 1,200 miles long. Next time with a dive company that promises tasty food. I want to see lionfish, and sunfish. That requires diving to 25 meters, so we may need to get our next level of dive certification before hand. Sea legs: bodily adjustment to the motion of a ship indicated especially by ability to walk steadily and by freedom from seasickness. Yeah… that took a while. It took me till 2 days after I returned from Australia to be completely over it. Every day after the boat it got milder and milder. There was no nausea, just wooziness. Kind of like a little too much wine. Day 4: Right next-door was the SkyRail to take us over the tops of rainforests. It was fun. Better than Disneyland. And everywhere you looked… gorgeous. I even saw a huge blue butterfly, fluttering around. I looked for a Cassowary, but only found a mock up of it. This one’s for Riparia.
At the end of rail
ride is an artsy village, catering to tourists. It shuts down and becomes
a ghost town at 4pm. While there we went into Koala
Gardens. Where we got to pet kangaroos and wallabies. They are darn
cute and soft. That
night we went to Red
Ochre Grill for dinner, where we had: As we were looking
over the menu, I couldn’t help but think of those cute kangaroos
we had petted-just less than 5 hours ago! And now I was contemplating
eating one! For a brief second I wondered if I would let this stop me.
I mentioned this dilemma to BRKVW who said he had the opposite thought.
While petting them earlier, he kept thinking that in a few hours he
would be eating one. Day 5 & 6:
Now, I know we are
not ‘tour group’ kind of people. Buses, other people, chatty
tour guides, smokers, inability to be on your own schedule, other people…
it’s just not for us. But… we did not want to rent a car,
as we did not want to drive, because for the most part, we consider
driving stressful- ick!
Day 7: Day 8: Day 9:
The auditorium is new and you can see where the old ‘Croc Feeding’ shows were held. Wood bleachers around some of the other croc pens. Besides, crocs, there were other interesting animals; camels, Tasmanian devils, wombats and a white kangaroo. I think it is albino. There were signs around saying that they…Steve and his family did not support the consumption of our crocodile and kangaroo friends. And they encouraged us not to buy products made from them. While cute, I wanted to know what exactly they meant, and where they stood on the croc farm issue. But they weren’t around to ask. Next time.
Very noticeable difference, between this zoo and an US zoo, is that you could stand pretty darn close to something that could kill you. Look how legally misleading this sign would be interpreted.
Look at how close
he is. In the states, because of the ‘liability’ danger,
the fence would be much higher, and there would be more distance between
you and him. The one on the left.
The zoo also had a Cassowary Bird. This endangered species has many interesting things about it. Besides it's striking features, it has a 'toe' or claw which it will use if threatened. Not unlike how a velociraptor might have. It is the second largest flightless bird, growing to about 2 m tall. They lay bright blue eggs. Their 'turf' is about 7 square km.
Day 10: Day 11: Glad to get back to soft toilet tissue and good lighting. And cookies. And fresh fruit. That’s not to say Australia does not have these things, it was more a circumstance of being on the go and the places we stayed that made these simple things, upon return, so right. Overall, I enjoyed Cairns more than Brisbane. A county mouse by heart. I would enjoy going back to AU for 4-6 months. Rent a campervan and just drive ALL around it, at our own pace. Bring DJ. It would also be fun to travel with or meet up with friends during those months. Some other impressions: Cairns had lots of backpackers [students on the cheap]. Mostly from Europe. It also had a drive through liquor store. Movie trailers are short and do not try the hard sell, like in the states. They really are for the general audience. Unlike the ones in the states that I think are often too violent for a general audience rating. One movie theatre had a special price for unemployed. Cute. My guess is you have to show you are on the dole. Saw children on the school play grounds wearing hats… each one of them, without remiss. Majority of credit card receipts printed the whole number, plus expiration date. So, if you are a credit card number thief… AU is the place to be. Lack of toilet seat
tissue covers. |
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